The restored Königsberg Cathedral

One hundred and fifty euros for a Russian visa. Nearly six hours waiting to cross the border at Sovetsk/Tilsit. And 134km from there to the city of Kaliningrad/Königsberg.

Königsberg Cathedral is the jewel of what precious little is left here of German architecture — the site the official tourist brochure says to visit first and foremost.

When we got there, at 1pm on a summer Sunday, it was closed of course.

Because it was the weekend.

Lesson: if you want to keep your customers, you MIGHT consider keeping your customers’ hours.

That said, we are really enjoying walking around this one-of-a-kind city, nourished by good, cheap beer (and no open container laws) and the legendary Belomorkanal pinch-filter cigarettes at 6 rubles (that’s almost 11 whole English pence) a pack.